Then mark for the Keyways that will be Routed into the back of the top Board of the Carcass. Make sure you add direction arrows of the slots or you may end up with them going in opposite directions. (and yes I learned that the hard way...) Next using a Router Table cut the rabit edge to flush mount the Back Board. Here put marks on either side of the Keyways on the inside of the Carcass so you don't Route through them.

As to make it not so square, I disassembled the Carcass and gave the sides a little recess design. I cut it out on the Band Saw and sanded it with my Oscillating Spindle Sander.

This is something I normally don't do, but being not to sure on the shade of gray I wanted. I primed and Base Coated the Back-less Carcass just to get a Idea of what it will look like finished.

Next cut out the back to fit the inside of the rabit edged back of the Carcass notching out for the Keyways. In this case I used Luan (1/4" floor underlayment) and filled the grain with Plaster of Paris. That works, but is very Dusty when sanded. I plan to use Plexiglass in the future when a flat, smooth back is needed.

To conceal the Lights I made a Face Board 44"1/2 x 2"1/4, rounded the ends, and routed a 3/4 wide dado groove.

Here is where things got a little more complicated. The Undershelf Accent Lights I wanted to use only come in lengths of 10", 20"and 30". Not enough to light with just one, so needing 2 I used a 10" and a 30". Since I planned to make this a muli-scene display using different componants including doors, I put a notch in the Face Board. Centering each light on either side. This way I could install and remove Interior componants that are taller than the opening more easily and the Doors would help hide the wiring.

First to run the wires I cut a 3/4" Dado front to rear on the bottom of the Top Board. Then using the same 3/4" bit cut a Rabit edge along the front.

Then I cut the cords 2" from the Lights and spliced them to one of the Cords using Shrink Wrap to seal the splices.

Next, to get the proper Lighting the Lights need to be angled. I ripped a piece of scrap at 45 degrees, cut two pieces to length, sanded, primered and Brad Nailed them behind the Face Board. NOTE: Be VERY CAREFULL when making angle cuts on a Table Saw. There is a MUCH HIGHER DANGER of KICK-BACK when the Blade is at an Angle.

To cover the cord I made a 3/8" strip, cut Rabit edges down both sides, then notched out the backend.

The top and Face Board are painted Krylon Smoke Gray and the bottom is Rust-Oleum American Accents Soldier Gray.

Next, I cut 25 pieces of 1x, 1/2"x 5"1/2, rounded the fronts, then spacing them 1" apart their Brad Nailed from the top. Then I painted a piece of Aluminum Tubing to run the cord through the bottom Board.

The back is added and we're ready for Interior Componants...Stay Tuned !!