The end result ended up as usual as a complete change in materials used and construction techniques.

I started by laying out different arrangments using C3 components with the new curved bar sections not available at the time C3 was designed.

I had already decided to go with MDF (medium density fiberboard) for the top. It would have to be reinforced to prevent it from sagging in the middle. The reinforcement is what also allows for the use of 1/2" instead of 3/4" MDF.

My first prototype (using original brackets and extenting the wood floor) wasn't quit clicking..

First change was to go with a reinforced 1/2" MDF floor.

Next was to redesign the brackets making them one piece out of 3/4" plywood .

Then a huge design change that I will use in all Bracket designs in the future. Drilling holes through both the Brackets and running the cord for the Light Strip inside instead of down the back and trying to find places to hide it. This way you can attach the light from either side running the cord as close to an electric receptical as possible.

After the strip that hides the Light and reinforces the top is Brad nailed to the Brackets the top is attached. Screws hold the sides, Brad Nails across the front.

Holes are drilled in the rear support strip and in the bottom (lined up with the bracket hole) for the light cord before installing it to the Brackets. The rear holes are for looping the cord so it will run down a wall on either side or the middle instead of dropping it down in front.

A Hand held Router with a Rabiting Bit is used to cut the Rabit edge so the Luan back will sit flush. The back blank is dimensioned and corners rounded to fit the inlay.

One last sanding before Painting.

I have decided to go with a modified track bracket system for this project. The tracks are widely available and this will be very handy for my next Tatooine project...

Done it be !!