Next measure and cut the support pieces for the sides. The top pieces are attached to front and back pieces in a frame. A Rabet edge is cut on top for the plexiglass ceiling

Since I want to get light to travel down the "Channels" The Light will need to be over the top of them. So I added a strip to the top. I also added strips on the sides to even up the back so the Light Box doesn't look cantilevered

For the lightbox, we cut the backs to the light channels out of Luan and mount them using screen tabs and screws. Then we build the frame of the Light Box using 1"x6".

First crosscut two pieces 60 1/4" and two 17 1/4", then rip 5" wide. Then clamp the pieces to the top of the carcass to make sure the sides fit flush. Next screw the front and back to the sides for a "Face to Edge joint.

Then I route a rabbet edge in the top to fit a Luan top.

Now I can't stand to waste all that light. so I want to make the sides of the box "illuminate" but since it is basicly "SKY" What to do? Well clouds...NAW...Then I got an Idea (sounds scary don't it). In the movie "A NEW HOPE" Luke stares out at Twin Suns.... So It's time to get out the Rotozip.

Now a little disassembly. Remove the cut board to sand on another favorite of mine, the oscilating spindal sander.

Gut a shoplight and cut off the ends. Put two strips on the bottom side of the top and attach the ends.Next Mount the Ballast to side of box and lengthen the wires, making sure to leave extra wire in case you need to move the lights. Solder the connections (it helps to know an octopus)and use shrink tubing to cover them.

Next I'll dissassemble and paint before continuing our lighting tests.

But before final priming and basecoating, I needed to add some more details. First I wanted to give it a Stadium look, and add some strips to divide the "ground" from the "air" On the sides so I very carefully ripped narrow strips on the Table saw, and since that the narrower you cut, the more of a chance of kickback you take. I usually rip them wider than I need, and run them over a Jointer to take out the saw marks and get then down to size.

Then I figured the angles, cut them on a Bandsaw and smoothed the edges with a stationary belt sander. This is not the way most woodworkers would say to do It, but it works for me when working with thin pieces of wood.

Now the strips are Bradnailed to the inside and outside equally then the holes are filled with wood putty.

You'll notice that I shortened up this side. There's a good reason for that which I'll reveal later.

Next, in the movie there are alot of Obelisk (tapered monument) looking structures at Boonta Eve. So I added some vertical supports to the wall to emulate them.

Another detail I wanted to add before painting, was the timbers that protrude from the awning in Wattos Box. So I drilled holes in the columns using a Forstner bit (flat bottom "T" shaped drill bit) and added some Dowel rods. Since the timbers are bare wood, I stained them.

Next, White out !! Looks more like Hoth now.

Next comes the paint. It's exciting (seeing color) and boring (waiting for paint to dry). For Boonta Eve he back, bottom and part of the sides get a basecoat of Nutmeg.

The Insides of the lower doorways will be in Black (for now) so I trace out the doorway on the side to paint. Then I paint it with the bottom part of the channel backs.

Then I add the rest of Wattos box and the Announcers booth.

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